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A Color Specialist

Colourist based in California who specialises in grey hair. His clients include celebrated actors and Andie MacDowell.

Which budget-friendly product is a must-have?

I swear by a microfibre towel, or even a gentle tee to remove moisture from your strands. Most people don’t realise how much harm a typical terrycloth towel can do, particularly for grey or color-processed hair. This minor adjustment can really minimize flyaways and damage. Another inexpensive must-have is a broad-toothed comb, to use during washing. It protects the hair while removing knots and helps preserve the strength of the individual hairs, particularly post-bleaching.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

A professional-grade heat styling tool – ceramic or tourmaline, with adjustable temperature options. Lightened strands can yellow or burn easily without the right iron.

Which popular practice is a definite no-go?

DIY bleaching. Online tutorials can be misleading, but the reality is it’s one of the most hazardous actions you can do to your hair. I’ve witnessed clients severely damage their locks, experience breakage or end up with striped effects that are incredibly challenging to remedy. I also don’t recommend chemical straightening processes on pre-lightened strands. Such treatments are often too aggressive for weakened hair and can cause chronic issues or undesired tones.

Which typical blunder stands out?

Clients selecting inappropriate items for their particular strand characteristics. Certain clients overapply colour-correcting purple shampoo until their lightened locks looks lifeless and muted. Some depend excessively on protein-rich treatments and end up with unmanageable, weak locks. Another significant problem is heat styling without protection. If you’re using hot tools or dryers without a protective product, – especially on pre-lightened hair – you’re going to see yellowing, dryness and breakage.

Which solutions help with shedding?

Thinning requires a comprehensive strategy. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. I often suggest follicle treatments containing stimulants to boost blood flow and aid in hair growth. Incorporating a clarifying shampoo regularly helps clear out buildup and allows solutions to be more efficient. Oral aids like specialized formulas have also shown positive outcomes. They work internally to benefit externally by balancing body chemistry, anxiety and nutritional deficiencies.

In cases requiring advanced options, blood-derived therapies – where a concentration from your blood is administered – can be successful. Still, my advice is to consulting a skin or hair specialist initially. Thinning can be linked to medical conditions, and it’s important to determine the origin rather than seeking quick fixes.

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A Trichology Expert

Trichologist and leader in hair health clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

What’s your routine for trims and color?

My trims are every couple of months, but will remove split ends personally bi-weekly to preserve strand health, and have color touches every two months.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

Toppik hair fibres are truly impressive if you have thinning spots. They attach using static to your strands, and it comes in a range of colors, making it almost invisible. I used it myself in the postpartum period when I had noticeable thinning – and also presently during some significant shedding after having awful flu a few months ago. Since hair is non-vital, it’s the earliest indicator of health issues when your nutrition is inadequate, so I would also recommend a healthy, varied eating plan.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

In cases of hereditary hair loss in females, I’d say prescription hair-loss topicals. For excessive daily hair shedding, AKA telogen effluvium (TE), buying an non-prescription item is fine, but for FPHL you really do need clinical interventions to see the optimal outcomes. From my perspective, minoxidil combined with additional ingredients – such as hormones, anti-androgens and/or anti-inflammatories – works best.

Which popular remedy is ineffective?

Using rosemary essential oil for thinning. It's ineffective. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of a low-dose minoxidil with rosemary oil. A mild formula such as 2% is inadequate to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they are equally minimal in effect.

Likewise, mega-doses of biotin. Rarely do people lack biotin, so taking it is unlikely to do your hair any good, and it can alter thyroid level measurements.

What blunder stands out often?

In my view, we should rename "hair washing" to "scalp cleaning" – because the primary purpose of washing is to remove buildup, flakes, perspiration and dirt. Many individuals refrain from cleansing as they think it’s bad for their hair, when in fact the contrary is accurate – notably in cases of dandruff, which is intensified by sebum accumulation. If natural oils stay on the head, they deteriorate and lead to inflammation.

Unfortunately, what your scalp needs and what your hair likes don’t always align, so it’s a balancing act. But as long as you are gentle when you shampoo and handle wet hair with care, it won’t be damaging to your strands.

What solutions do you suggest for thinning?

For genetic thinning in women, start with minoxidil. It's backed by strong research and tends to show optimal results when mixed with supporting compounds. If you then want to try other things to support minoxidil’s effect, or you simply don’t want to or can’t use it, you could try microneedling (see a dermatologist), and perhaps PRP or low-level laser therapy.

In shedding cases, root cause analysis is crucial. Noticeable thinning usually relates to a health trigger. Occasionally, the reason is temporary – such as flu, Covid or a period of intense stress – and it will resolve on its own. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the most common being ferritin (stored iron), vitamin B12 and vitamin D deficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus