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This marks pumpkin season and most anticipated time of the year, especially for all the spiced dishes and other hearty meals of autumn. This Northwest Indian sautéed dish is a regular in my kitchen, and the combination of ginger, chili and palm sugar lends it a wonderful flavor harmony. This layered rice dish, on the other hand, is packed with whole spices, basmati and ghee, which give enhanced flavour to the layers of grains and vegetables.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

National curry week starts on early October, so how perfect to mark the occasion than with a rich, warming, single-pot layered rice dish? For convenience, prepare the spiced vegetable mixture component in advance and layer everything on the occasion you plan to eat.

Preparation 20 min
Cooking 2 hr
Serves 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

First make the curry base. Melt the clarified butter in a large, thick-bottomed pot on a moderate flame, add the cumin seeds, bay leaves and cloves, and sauté for a brief moment. Add the onion slices and sauté, frequently turning, for 30-35 minutes, until tender. When the onions start to brown, transfer half of them to a plate and reserve (for later use during the layering).

Introduce the fresh chilies and ginger to the remaining onions, fry for a minute, then stir in the tomato puree, chili powder, turmeric powder and coriander powder, and sauté for a minute. Turn down to a gentle flame, blend in the yoghurt and cook for two minutes.

Mix in the pumpkin pieces and mushroom halves, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then cook for several minutes. Add the stock or water, and add salt to taste. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat, cover and simmer for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway to make sure no sticking to the bottom of the pan. Garnish with coriander, then remove from the heat.

Heat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Wash the basmati, then place it in a pot with a quart of water and the bay, cardamom pods and salt. Bring to a boil, simmer for 10-12 minutes, until partially cooked, then strain.

For assembling the layered dish, place a spoonful of melted ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a secure cover. Ladle in one portion the spiced vegetables, then top that with half the cooked grains. Add half the saffron infusion, ginger strips, mint leaves, cardamom powder and spice blend, then add the reserved fried onions. Layer with the rest of vegetable curry, then arrange the leftover rice. Top with the rest of clarified butter, saffron water, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and spice mix.

Cover with baking paper, cover with the lid, then bake on the middle shelf of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so the aromas soak into the grains. Remove of the heat, allow to stand, keeping covered, for 10 minutes, then remove the cover and present with yogurt sauce and fresh salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Squash with Spice Blend Stir-Fry)

The Hindi term "achari" refers to flavouring a preparation using preserving spices, and the mix contains mustard seeds, fennel seeds, fenugreek, cumin seeds, asafoetida and kalonji, but they're not used only in pickles. The blend also appears in all manner of spiced dishes and sautéed preparations, like this recipe.

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek and fennel in a spice grinder, roughly grind, then set aside. Put the cooking oil in a large frying pan or kadhai on a moderate flame. Add the crushed spices and the hing, and sauté, mixing, for a brief moment. Mix in the ginger, cook for a minute, then add the pumpkin pieces, chili powder and turmeric, and fry, tossing, for five minutes more.

Pour a small amount water to the pan, season with salt to taste and heat until bubbling. Place lid, turn down the flame, and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring once halfway. Mix in the palm sugar, breaking up chunks a little, then add the dried mango, mix thoroughly and serve warm with flatbreads or leavened bread.